Karpathos Island Hotels

Karpathos, or Kerpe as we call it, is one of the most difficult of the Dodecanese islands to reach. Maybe that's why it is one of the rare islands that still has its soul. We had been planning to go there for a long time, and finally, thanks to the roads, ferries and a little patience, we finally made it, and I'm glad we did. Because Karpathos instantly destroys the classic image you would expect from a Greek island. Aren't there white painted houses, blue shutters, flowery streets? Yes. But Karpathos is something else. Its weather, geography, architecture and especially its villages tell you a completely different culture. We even thought for a moment, “Is this really Greece?” while walking through some of its streets.

The first thing that caught our attention as soon as we set foot on the island was its nature. The mountain ranges running right through the middle of Karpathos divide the island into two; the eastern side is lush green, covered with pine forests, reminiscent of the Antalya-Kemer line, while the western side is more arid, harsher and windy. When you go two kilometers from one slope to the other, it is as if the seasons have changed. This difference is felt not only in the landscape but also in the sea, the air and even in the way people live. Both sides are surrounded by magnificent beaches. Sandy bays, rocky shores, glassy waters... Whichever one you go to, you say “this is the most beautiful one”, and then you change your mind when you go to another one. This is exactly why we fell in love with Karpathos.

Transportation requires some patience. The island has a small airport but if you want to go from Turkey, connecting flights from Athens are long and expensive. We took the ferry from Marmaris to Rhodes and from there to Karpathos. There are two ferries a week in low season and three in high season. The ferry ride takes about six hours, but it's a good time to watch the open seas in the middle of the Aegean, sleep a little and read a book. A car is a must on the island because the beaches, especially on the south and west coasts, cannot be reached otherwise. On the east side, there are daily boat tours departing from Pigadia, stopping at a few coves for a swimming break and a meal. You can get information about these tours from the offices around the harbor right after you get off the ferry.

Our favorite among the beaches was Vatha. The bottom is fine sand and the water is unbelievably clear and turquoise. Votsalakia Beach has a more dramatic view and a stony bottom. Prices for sunbeds and umbrellas are almost constant throughout the island, and all the establishments seem to have a common tariff. Kato Lefkos is one of the most beautiful bays on the west coast. It's a tiny settlement, but the beach is great. Finiki is more like a fishing village; the beach is very small, but the taverns on the beach are very sympathetic and the right address for those who want to eat fresh fish.

Let's come to Olympos Village... It is really worth seeing. At an altitude of 700 meters, this village, built on a mountain slope, feels isolated from the outside world. In the past, transportation was only possible on donkeys, this alone is enough to explain how special it is. Today, when you walk through the streets where cars still can't enter, you feel like you are traveling back in time when you see women in their traditional clothes, local shops and stone houses. Everything is so real, not like a movie set, but like it has always been there. We visited the village on our way back from Apella Beach, it was in the evening. The daily buses arrive around 10 and leave around 5-6, so it has a quieter atmosphere in the afternoon. But note for photographers: One side of the village gets light in the morning and the other side in the afternoon, so you need to time it well to get one side right.

Karpathos is no ordinary Greek island. It has a rough and calm, striking but sincere spirit. Lots of wind, lots of silence, amazing bays, a different character in every corner. Yes, it's a bit of a hassle to reach, but once you go, you will surely say “Why didn't I come here before?”.