The Magic of Solitude That Actually Does Your Soul Good: Astypalea Island Diary

Imagine a deserted island... But one that isn't “quite so deserted.” Astipalaia sits right on that fine line: neither completely alone, nor lost in the chaos of the crowd. When you arrive here, you learn to breathe in the salty air, listen to the silent melody of the waves, and feel the taste of every bite you take in every cell of your body. Astipalaia offers much more than an ordinary vacation; it is a stop, a break, an island of rebirth. It’s no coincidence they call it the “butterfly island.” Because every corner of it gently lifts your spirit.

The moment you set foot on the island, you find yourself in a fairy tale. Whitewashed houses, blue windows, and streets bathed in the soft light of the sun... Astypalea is neither as spiritually profound as Patmos nor as glamorous as Mykonos. It is an island that captivates with its simplicity. And it is this simplicity that allows you to reconnect with yourself, something you have neglected for so long. The moment you land at the small airport, the silence is so intense that it awakens all your senses. Accompanied by the gentle melody of the waves and the wind, you take a breath away from the noise of the crowd. Alternatively, you can reach the island by taking a short ferry ride from Bodrum to Kos, followed by a scenic 1.5-hour drive. The blue of the Aegean embraces you along the way, and the moment you step onto the island, all your fatigue melts away.

When you arrive in Chora, the heart of the island, the Venetian castle rises majestically among the pure white houses to greet you. As you climb a slight slope through the narrow streets, the entire island suddenly unfolds at your feet. White houses blending with the blue of the sea, bougainvilleas swaying in the wind, and small fishing boats disappearing on the horizon... When you see that view, you are already convinced to “slow down” as soon as your vacation begins. When you descend from Chora, you have many options: you can surrender yourself to the silence of a beach, engage in conversation over ouzo at a shaded table, or get lost in the narrow streets. Each choice brings you a little closer to the rhythm of the island. Livadi Beach, one of the island's most famous beaches, still manages to retain its tranquility. If you're thinking, “I want some people around, but I don't want to be in a crowd,” it offers just the right balance. As you read your book on the warm sand, occasionally taking a dip in the sea to cool off, you won't even notice how time flies. The sea is sparkling, the breeze is light... Spending time here becomes one of the simplest and most precious moments you give yourself.

Food Experiences in Astipalaia

Eating in Astipalaia is not just about filling your stomach; it’s about becoming part of the sea, the salt, the wind, and the very soul of the island. Every bite here imprints itself into your memory, inseparable from the view that surrounds you. Para Thin Alos sits right on the edge of the water, almost built into the waves themselves. Take one step and your feet touch the sea; take another and you’re at your table. The menu is simple, local, unpretentiousyet unforgettable. Dining here feels as if you’re breathing in sync with the sea, lifting your fork in rhythm with the waves. A little further along, Maltezana welcomes you. Accessible both by land and boat, this small fishing village feels like a place where time slows down. As you stroll along its modest pier, silence accompanies you. Fisherman Adonis doesn’t just serve you the freshest catch of the day; he also guides you to the island’s hidden beaches, unlocking secret corners of Astipalaia. Here, a meal becomes more than just food it’s discovery, it’s a shared secret. At the very tip of that pier sits Almyra restaurant. Sit down and your feet are almost brushing the water. Tarama here takes on another dimension unlike any version you’ve ever seen. One taste brings together salt, lemon, and the essence of the sea, lingering on your palate long after. And the calamari perhaps you’ve had it elsewhere, but here, with the sea lapping beneath you, its flavor becomes incomparable. Then comes the most striking moment: arriving at Vatses and Kaminakia by boat. No phone signal, no noise. Just small local tavernas serving pure, stripped-down flavors. The sand dances between your toes, the horizon stretches endlessly, and in front of you nothing but the sea and the sky. A simple plate of Greek salad, maybe fresh grilled fish on the side… and suddenly you realize: nothing is missing. Maybe your loved one is beside you, maybe not. But in that moment, you are completely at one with the universe.

Astipalaia Island Flavors: Light as Serenity

When you sit down at the table in Astipalaia, you realize not what is missing from the plate, but rather what is not excessive. Here, everything is measured, simple, and just as it should be. The delicacy of stuffed zucchini flowers, the salty sea scent of fresh octopus cooked over coals, the satisfying yet balanced taste of various lamb dishes... When topped with a simple but unforgettable dessert made with the island's own honey and ricotta, you understand the whole story: there is no room for excess; simplicity itself is a feast. The same tranquility and care greet you in every restaurant. There are no grand presentations or decorations on the plates, but every bite leaves a huge impression on your memory. It's an unpretentious but lasting, calm but powerful experience.

What Did Astipalaia Island Bring Me?

Astipalaia reminded me that “I can exist without doing anything.” Here, time transcends to-do lists, rush, and plans. Just sitting, watching the sea, feeling the wind touch your hair becomes meaningful. What the Italians call “dolce far niente,” the sweetness of time spent doing nothing, finds its Greek equivalent here. Because on Astipalaia, life is complete with listening to the silence; with a simple meal, a short walk, or a day spent doing nothing. And perhaps most importantly, you learn that this is enough. The solitude didn't scare me; instead, it allowed me to hear the voices inside me more clearly. And perhaps the most beautiful part is that in a place where everything is enough, I never felt the need for “more.”

Little Notes

Getting There: There are direct flights from Athens with Sky Express. By ferry, you can take the Bodrum–Kos route and then connect from Kos to Astipalaia. Always check the seasonal schedules in advance.

Where to Stay: In Maltezana, Akroti Hotel stands out with its newly renovated rooms, its terrace just two steps from the sea, and an atmosphere of pure tranquility.

How Long to Stay: 3–4 days is a good start, but give it a week and the island slowly pulls you deeper into its rhythm.

Tip: At sunset, head to the terrace of Castro Bar for a coffee or a cocktail. You’ll feel as if you’re at the very edge of infinity, quietly giving thanks for everything once more.

 
“Solitude is not a loneliness to be feared… it can be a gentle state of healing, the kind your soul needs most.” That’s what Astipalaia whispers in your ear. And perhaps, deep down, that’s exactly why you’re there to remember it.