Three Days in the Heart of the Volcano: A Summer Getaway to Nisyros Island

Nisyros: A Hidden Gem in the Heart of the Aegean

Nisyros is a small island in the heart of the Aegean — a place you may be hearing about for the first time. Its round shape on the map and the still-active volcano inside make it feel like a secret escape where time slows down and the noise of everyday life stays behind. There are no large hotels, no crowded streets. The moment you step foot on the island, something happens. Silence, the sound of the sea echoing between stone houses, the scent of jasmine accompanying your morning coffee — a calming peace begins to settle in your soul. Nisyros is one of those places where nature and humans coexist harmoniously. Over three days, you can take morning walks, wander the white streets of Mandraki at midday, and end your evenings watching the sunset at a small seaside taverna. Everything is simple, slow, and just right. Let’s take a closer look at this special world of Nisyros.

 
Day 1: Wake Up with the Volcano, Get Lost in Mandraki

As soon as we got off the ferry, Mandraki’s warm welcome greeted us whitewashed houses, blue shutters, and cobbled streets that seemed to have been waiting for us for years. Sitting at the small seaside café To Balkoni tou Emporiou, sipping our Greek coffee, we thought to ourselves, “This is what happiness feels like.” Next, we headed to the island’s heart: the active volcano Stefanos Crater. Being there was unlike anything else — rising steam, hot rocks, and a faint sense of unease made it feel like walking on another planet. It was an experience where you could feel nature’s power deep in your bones. Lunch was at Apiria Taverna. Homemade mezes, crispy fried zucchini, and warm saganaki spoiled us. Small note: here they serve ouzo instead of raki, which we enjoyed. In the late afternoon, we strolled slowly through Mandraki’s narrow streets and climbed to the famous Panagia Spiliani Monastery. Watching the sunset from there was indescribable; the view was breathtaking. On our way back, we stopped at Captain’s House Bar by the waterfront and watched the sun go down with cocktails in hand. At that moment, we realized that Greeks really know how to enjoy life.

Day 2: Beach, Taverna, and a Little Laughter

We started the morning with breakfast at Geusea: warm pastries straight from the oven, crispy tiropita, and freshly squeezed orange juice. Dieting could wait until Monday! Our first beach was Pachia Ammos. After a short walk, we reached this hidden paradise white sand, turquoise waters, and absolute peace. Lunch was at Panagia Cafe Taverna: calamari, fresh Greek salad, and a cold Mythos beer revived our energy. Next, we went to Lies Beach, a rockier beach with incredibly clear water, perfect for snorkelers. Swimming among the fish was unforgettable. In the evening, we returned to Mandraki and had dinner at the island’s most famous taverna, Irini’s Taverna. People danced to live bouzouki music, seafood was delicious, and the atmosphere felt like a scene from Mamma Mia. We even jokingly asked the waiter, “Can we get married here?” and he smiled in response. That’s when we truly felt the island’s uniqueness.

Day 3: Mountain Villages and Farewell

On our last day, we explored the mountain villages Emporios and Nikia. Emporios was quiet, peaceful, and seemingly frozen in time. A frappe at To Balkonaki refreshed us. Nikia, with its narrow streets and stone houses, was a true sanctuary for the soul. We also visited the Volcano Museum, taking a brief journey into the island’s past. The gentle wind and volcanic views made our photos unforgettable. For our farewell dinner, we went to Apololi Kori Restaurant. Fried octopus, roasted eggplant, and homemade wine made for a simple yet heartfelt evening. The view and tranquility warmed our hearts and concluded our trip perfectly.

 
Where to Stay in Nisyros

Nisyros offers many cozy and welcoming accommodation options. The island is filled with small family-run hotels and stone houses rather than large resorts. Staying here means more than just sleeping under a roof — it’s about feeling the spirit of the island, chatting with locals, and watching the sunset as if you were home.

1. Romantzo Hotel (Mandraki center): With its terrace overlooking the volcano, it offers peaceful views at any time of day. Prices in April range from €70-90, ideal for comfortable and enjoyable stays.
2. Porfyris Hotel: Perfect for families. Kids can enjoy the pool while adults relax. Prices in April range from €60-80, offering a warm and friendly atmosphere.
3. Nisyros Views (Nikia village): For a quieter, romantic, and nature-filled stay, this is an excellent choice. Prices range from €90-110, ideal for those seeking a peaceful retreat.
   No matter where you stay, the warmth and calm offered by the island will be one of the most memorable parts of your trip.

How to Get to Nisyros from Turkey

The easiest way to reach Nisyros is by sea, as the island doesn’t have an airport. We took a ferry from Bodrum to Kos, then from Kos, we boarded a Dodekanisos Seaways ship, which took about an hour to reach Nisyros. For travelers wishing to explore the Dodecanese islands, Dodekanisos Seaways ferries make it easy to hop from one island to another. The sea journey is not only enjoyable but also full of scenic views — in fact, this was our favorite part of the trip.

Top 3 Beaches in Nisyros

Nisyros offers some of the most beautiful beaches in the Aegean, perfect for cooling off, escaping crowds, and enjoying nature. Some are accessible only by boat, others after a short walk, but each one provides a peaceful and authentic experience. The island has no massive beach clubs or rows of sunbeds it’s still simple and natural. These three beaches will make your two-day stay even more memorable:

1. Pachia Ammos: One of the island’s most beloved beaches. With its white sand and crystal-clear waters, it’s peaceful and secluded. Reaching it requires a short walk, but it’s worth it. Ideal for sunbathing, reading, or just enjoying the sound of the sea and nature.
2. Lies Beach: A rockier beach, but the water is so clear that snorkelers will love it. Underwater rocks and colorful fish create a whole new world beneath the surface. The beach is calm, with few crowds, making it perfect for nature lovers.
3. Hochlaki Beach: Close to Mandraki and easily accessible, this smaller beach features natural beauty created by volcanic stones. Entering the water among black rocks is a unique experience. Great for both photography and a refreshing swim. At sunset, the atmosphere becomes magical.

Photo: BeachSearcher – Pachia Ammos

Where to Eat and Drink in Nisyros

Dining in Nisyros is about more than just tasting delicious food it’s about feeling the island’s calm and welcoming vibe. Small, genuine establishments serve the best of Greek cuisine with fresh ingredients, accompanied by warm smiles and friendly conversation. Every meal becomes part of the joy of exploring and relaxing.

Breakfast

Geusea: Perfect for starting the day with warm pastries and crispy tiropita. The cozy atmosphere and friendly staff make mornings special.
To Balkoni tou Emporiou: A lovely seaside stop in Mandraki. Enjoy Greek coffee with the scent of jasmine and an unforgettable view.

Lunch

Panagia Cafe Taverna: A simple and welcoming taverna with homemade mezes and fresh seafood perfect for recharging during the day.
Captain’s House Snack Bar: Ideal for light snacks and cold drinks, a great spot for a quick break in the sun by the shore.

Dinner & Taverna Experience

Irini’s Taverna: One of Mandraki’s most popular tavernas. Enjoy live bouzouki music, fresh seafood, and a warm, lively atmosphere. A memorable evening in the heart of the island.
Apololi Kori: Highly recommended for your last night. Fried octopus, roasted eggplant, and local wines create an unforgettable feast, with a stunning view to complement it.
Taverna Bacareto: Simple, cozy, and focused on authentic local flavors. Dining here feels like being part of the island for a while.

Bars & Cocktails

Captain’s House Bar: One of the best spots to watch the sunset. Great cocktails and a friendly crowd of both locals and visitors.
Sterna Bar: A quieter, relaxed place for an easy evening with good music, comfy seating, and tasty drinks.

 
Nisyros is far calmer, more intimate, and charming compared to the bigger islands. Over three days, we enjoyed the sea, explored history, and couldn’t help thinking, “When can we come back?” If you’re planning a summer getaway, June–September is the perfect time.