Places to Visit and Food & Drink Recommendations in Kars

How About Getting to Know Kars Up Close?

Maybe this title doesn’t sound appealing to you, or you might think, “Why Kars?” I used to think that way too. But let’s leave the prejudice behind and read the article. Trust me, you’ll have fun with me, and as soon as you finish reading, you’ll be searching for tickets.

Everything probably came to life with the movie "Murder on the Orient Express." This journey no longer starts from Istanbul, but it continues from Ankara to Kars. It’s quite difficult to find a ticket for the departure, as tour companies usually buy them all. But finding a return ticket is easier. The trip starts in Kars and ends in Ankara. Tickets for each day are released on the TCDD website a month in advance. The journey lasts 24 hours, and you see the same views in both directions. Don’t worry if you can’t find a ticket for the departure; just get the return one. The train leaves Kars station at 8:00 a.m.
 

On the way back, you can order Cağ Kebab from Gel-Gör: call (0442) 234 21 22. They’ll tell you which station (Ilıca or Kandilli) to call just before, and your kebabs will be waiting for you when you arrive.

For me, Kars meant Sarıkamış. My love for skiing pushed me to book a ticket to Sarıkamış, the only ski destination I hadn’t yet visited. Thankfully, I did! I experienced a whole new culture thanks to it. Tickets were booked three months in advance. The hotels I stayed at in Kars were truly amazing. I was so indecisive that I ended up staying at two different hotels for two nights! The first night, we stayed at @hotelcheltikov, a stunning building built in 1874. It was used as an opera house for many years and was restored after the Russians left Kars.
 

Where to Stay in Kars?

For hotel options, check out the Kars page on https://www.boutiquesmallhotels.com/kars-hotels  for more details!

On the first day, we rented a car from the airport. There's only one car rental option at the airport, so it’s quite democratic... Our first destination was Lake Çıldır, about an hour away from Kars Airport. In winter, the lake completely freezes over, offering a beautiful snowy view. A small sled ride on the lake awaits you. There’s also a restaurant called Atalay’s Place by the lake, serving a fantastic menu with fresh fish from the lake. Imagine good music in the background (Ahmet Kaya), a snowy white lake in front of you, a delicious meal, a rustic restaurant, and an atmosphere that makes you feel like you’re in a different world. I enjoyed the yellowtail fish, while my friends preferred the trout. It’s best to try them all. If you want to call ahead, the number is 0478 311 27 19.

The first stop in Kars was Kars Castle. Since everything was covered in ice and snow, our Kars adventure was quite physically demanding. You can take a tea break at the castle, where tea is served in an authentic setting – a perfect way to recharge. Just below the castle is the Church of the Twelve Apostles, now known as Kümbet Mosque. This is a must-see. The imam, Mr. Faruk, greeted us with amazing hospitality. If the weather had permitted, we would have prayed there, as he was such a fantastic imam. He explained the mosque’s history and then called for prayer. This building dates back to the 10th century and has alternated between being a church and a mosque several times, depending on who was in power. It finally remained as a mosque.

Kümbet Mosque’s centuries-old walls seem to whisper stories of the past! The mosque is surrounded by lush gardens, and the only sound is the gentle murmur of a nearby stream.

Other Places You Should Visit:

The Caucasian Front War History Museum and Fevzi Çakmak Museum. In Kars, it starts getting dark around 4:30 p.m., so we headed back to the hotel for a little rest. Why? Because a fantastic dinner awaited us. Make sure to make a reservation. For the first evening, we chose Dilek Hanım's Hanımeli Restaurant. We clicked over the phone, and when we arrived, the food and conversation were wonderful. I want to thank Dilek and her family once again. The phone number is 0474 212 61 31. We left the menu up to her, and I think that’s the best way. But let me list the menu for you – this is the part I enjoy writing the most! Erişte Aşı soup, Acem kavurma, Hangel, Dolma, İrevan köfte, Piti, Cherry Pickles, and Kars Halva. Dilek’s conversation is priceless, and she even offers wine to guests she takes a liking to. A special mention must go to the song "Sarı Gelin" performed by Dilek’s husband on the tulum. I can honestly say they did everything they could to make us feel comfortable and happy.

On the second day, we dedicated our time to the Ani Ruins. Ani is 48 km from Kars, but for me, it’s the main reason to visit Kars. Ani dates back to the 6th century, though the caves around it are said to be from a pre-Christian era. You can see cave life right before your eyes. I don’t know how interested you are in history, but I was deeply moved. Sait, the security guard at Ani, gave us a tour, and his knowledge and experience were quite surprising. Ani’s entrance is marked by lions, and in 1066, the city came under Turkish rule. The cathedral was converted into a mosque after the conquest. Ani suffered significant damage in the 1319 earthquake, but some structures are still standing. You should spend at least two hours, if not more, exploring Ani. Arpaçay forms a natural border between Ani and Armenia. The historic Silk Road passed through Ani, and you can see the Silk Road Bridge. Even back then, milk was transported to the city via pipelines to avoid the smell of animals in the city. The entire area is surrounded by cliffs and walls. It’s truly sad that such a rich history in our country isn’t more appreciated. There are eight churches and one mosque that must be seen.

The place that touched me the most was the Virgin Mary Cathedral. Maybe it’s because it has a historical story. Menuçehr Mosque, built after the Turkish conquest, is the oldest mosque in our lands. A hidden gem in nature: Menuçehr Mosque! While its timeless beauty draws you in, let the peaceful atmosphere embrace you as you find solace in nature.

For dinner, we chose Kars Kaz Evi. You can’t come to Kars and not try goose! Now, I’ll comment on the taste, but since I live to eat, I’m not sure how accurate my judgment will be. Goose meat is phenomenal! It’s a bit salty and tough, but I loved it. Bulgur pilaf with goose is a perfect way to start. Ayran Aşı soup, manti, erişte pilaf, and the amazing Kars halva... It’s starting to sound like a food show, but even as I write, I’m craving it. For reservations, you can call 0474 212 37 13.

In the evening, we visited Kars Store. After dinner, we enjoyed wine and live music. You can taste Armenian wines, which are quite pleasant. As you listen to the music, you might even forget you’re in Kars. You can also pick up souvenirs from Kars Store. It’s right across from Kar’s Hotel. Our hotel for the second night was Kar’s Hotel. It seems that most visitors stay here. The 8-room hotel is completely white, and, like many other buildings in Kars, it’s an old Russian building that has been restored.

For lunch on our last day, we chose Kamer Kadıneli Restaurant. It’s right next to Kar’s Hotel. The decor is similar to cafes in Istanbul. We had Evelik Soup and Hangel (as seen in the photos). Later, we picked up some cheese. Büyük Zavotlar are the masters of this, and they ship everywhere, so no need to worry about carrying it. You can’t leave Kars without buying some gruyere and kashar cheese.

The Return Journey and Kars-Ankara Train... Get ready for a journey through history! The historic Stone Bridge, dating back to the Ottoman era (as seen in the photos), still preserves its enchanting charm, inviting visitors to spend peaceful moments in nature and capture unique photos.

Recommended Restaurants in Kars:

Kars Kaz Evi: This restaurant offers almost all of Kars' unique flavors and is famous for its goose meat and bulgur pilaf cooked in goose broth. You can also find other Kars dishes like hangel, evelik soup, and compote here.

Kamer Mutfak ve Cafe: Famous for its eggplant soup, this spot offers other Kars specialties like hangel, çökertme kebab, and goose meat.

Doğuş Ocakbaşı: Unlike the traditional Kars cuisine, this restaurant serves high-quality meat in an ocakbaşı style and is considered one of the best meat restaurants in the city.

Brother's Milkbar: This newly opened stylish cafe is ideal for those who want to try Kars' famous dairy products. It offers different milk flavors like cinnamon, honey, and mint, making it a great option for families with children.

Last but not least: Kars should be visited both in spring and winter. They offer entirely different experiences in each season. It’s also close to Doğubayazıt, which is a must-see for history enthusiasts.

Here’s a unique recommendation you won’t come across very often: The Kars Cheese Museum! Experience a part of Kars' gastronomic heritage at this museum, a treasure trove of cheese-making traditions that have pleased both locals and visitors for generations. You can find it in the visual gallery.

I think I’ve discovered an entirely different world.

Kars' cuisine is known for its local flavors and rich variety of dishes. The standout meals in Kars, especially those made with local ingredients like meat and dairy products, reflect a deep-rooted culinary tradition. Here are some must-try dishes in Kars and the restaurants where you can find them:

Famous Dishes of Kars:

Umaç Helva: A winter staple in Kars, similar to flour helva but with roasted flour bits that offer a distinct crunchy texture. It’s also made in Azerbaijan, and its crispy taste lingers on the palate.

Bulgur Pilaf with Goose: The symbol of Kars cuisine, goose meat is prepared by roasting geese raised in the highlands during the winter months. The dish is served with shredded goose meat over bulgur pilaf cooked in goose fat. While the taste of goose meat may not appeal to everyone, the bulgur cooked in goose broth is incredibly flavorful. You can try this dish at Kars Kaz Evi and Hanımeli Restaurant.

Hangel: Known as a meatless version of dumplings, hangel is prepared by boiling dough pieces and serving them with garlic yogurt and butter on top. It’s a must for carb lovers in Kars.

Kars Gruyere and Kars Kashar Cheese: Kars Gruyere, a cheese originally from Switzerland, is one of the most famous dairy products of Kars. It requires special conditions like very fresh milk and close proximity to cows during production. Gruyere production is labor-intensive, and it takes two years to mature. Kars Kashar is another well-known cheese from the region. These cheeses can be purchased at shops in Boğatepe Village.

Piti: A popular stew in Kars and neighboring provinces (Iğdır, Ardahan) made with lamb and chickpeas, colored with turmeric. This dish is served with lavash bread, and the broth is poured over the bread as part of the serving ritual.

Kars Honey: Produced from the pollen of flowers growing in the highlands of Kars, this honey is known as one of the most organic in Turkey. The lack of agricultural chemicals in Kars enhances its natural qualities. You can buy this honey from Boğatepe Village or Zeliha’s Organic Honey and Cheese.

Evelik Soup and Nettle Soup: Evelik is a sour-tasting plant harvested in spring in Kars. Evelik soup, made with green lentils, cracked wheat, onions, and various vegetables, is a traditional soup often consumed in winter. Similarly, nettle is frequently used in Kars cuisine, and its soup is prepared in a similar way to Evelik soup.

Places to Visit in Kars:

Fishing on Lake Çıldır: In winter, Lake Çıldır freezes over with ice up to 80 cm thick, turning into a stunning white desert. Visitors can experience ice fishing with local fishermen by breaking through the ice. Walking on the ice is safe, and fishermen demonstrate processes like net casting and ice breaking. This unforgettable experience offers breathtaking views and adventure.

Skiing and Snowboarding in Sarıkamış: Sarıkamış is known as one of the few places in the world, outside the Alps, where powder crystal snow falls. This unique snow provides a distinctive experience for skiers and snowboarders, leaving behind a veil-like trail.

Wildlife Observation: The Kars region is home to many wild animals, including bears, wolves, lynxes, and foxes. The KuzeyDoğa Association conducts wildlife conservation projects and looks for volunteers. The area is also excellent for birdwatching, particularly at Kuyucuk Lake, which boasts record birdwatching numbers.

Road Trips in Kars: Kars and its surroundings are perfect for road trips, offering lush green and blue landscapes in summer and endless white vistas in winter. Renting a car and exploring the natural beauty around Kars is a great way to experience the region.

Kars is a city that deserves to be explored, with its rich cuisine, natural beauty, and historical landmarks.